FOOD&DRINK reason why St John is voted one of the Worlds 50 Best Restaurants time and time again. 26 St John Street, EC1 (020 7251 0848) Terroirs ITS not only the Brits who do good bar food. Terroirs specialises in classics with a Gallic flavour. Our favourite? The duck scratchings (2.50) are arguably even better than the usual pork vari- ety. The charcuterie selec- tion also goes down well, particularly the hams and sausages made from French Noir de Bigorre piggies, an ancient breed of porker. Vegetarians and flexitarians (occa- sional meat-eaters) fare quite well here, with meat-free morsels including breakfast radishes with sea salt and butter (2.50) and cervelle de canut (3), a herby cheese dip which, despite the name, doesnt involve brains. 5 William IV Street, WC2 (020 7036 0660) The Harwood Arms CHEF Stephen Williams, formerly of the Michelin-starred Ledbury, brings his fine-dining experience to bear on devilishly good titbits that man- age to be both rustic yet properly gourmet. Game is a big feature of the regular menu and the snack one, too. Sausage rolls (2.50) are stuffed w i t h p h e a s a n t ; Scotched eggs (the correct term, appar- ently) are made with venison (2.50) and theres snackcomeback! London Lite Wednesday, 23 September 2009 21 Litebites Foodanddrinknews StylishSardinianwithsuper-sizeportions THIS Islington Italian is new but to its credit already feels like a worn-in local favourite. Stylish photos of sexy movie stars deck the walls; chianti-red banquettes and marble tables sit beneath. The cheery, small bar is equipped to supply Moretti beers and (surprisingly) expert cosmopolitan cocktails. You instantly feel at home. Bread is complimentary -- a bargain when youre talking grissini and focaccia. Hold back though, because the starters come in XXL. A 6.95 caprese was a monster portion of buffalo mozzarella with tomatoes, which was Modern classic: the Tenore in Islington is new but already feels like an established gem dwarfed by my 7.25 prosciutto alfresco of cured ham, a cricket ball of mozzarella and a peach, all drenched in balsamic vinegar. Ingredients may not be of the highest quality, but they are scoffable and super-fresh and you cant ever moan about small vernaccian wine sauce (14.45), so soft it fell off the bone. With the wood-fired oven proudly advertised, we chose a pizza -- picking a 9.75 parmigiana from a vast selection. The base was nicely crispy, but the topping of mozzarella, aubergines, parmesan and bacon was crying out for chilli oil for some oomph. The 5 cheesecake of the day was the sort of gelatinous triangle you see in Aberdeen Steak Houses. My advice: dont waste cash on desserts. Take half the pizza home, let its flavours deepen overnight and eat it cold for breakfast. Deliziosa! LARUSHKA IVAN-ZADEH portions. The cuisine here is Sardinian. Order in advance and the chef will cook you an entire roast suckling pig or lobster to traditional recipes (price on request). The date contented himself by tucking into rabbit with garlic and rosemary in a Tenore 14 Barnsbury Road, N1, 020 7278 6955 Three courses for two with wine 70 (service not included) The value of pie FRESHLY renovated Victoria Park boozer, The Pennethorne, does gastropub food without the prices. Its latest wheeze is Monday night pie night when a pie and a pint is just a tenner. Varieties might be wild rabbit or beef bourguignon. Were making a mental note of the crackling log fires too... it wont be long until we need them. 84 Victoria Park Road, E9, 020 8985 2205 Italia, top to toe OUR bookshelves may already be groaning but well make space for the new River Caf cookbook, which is published tomorrow. Tantalisingly described as the book that Rose and Ruth have always wanted to write, The River Caf Classic Italian Cookbook (30, Michael Joseph) includes 200 new recipes from the top to the toe of Italy. Its the big cheese CANTEEN marks British Cheese Week next week (26 September-4 October) with Welsh rarebit and a pint of Meantime India Pale Ale for a fiver. No ordinary cheese on toast, this -- Canteens is a powerhouse of flavour featuring gooey molten Montgomerys cheddar on crusty bread. Available at branches of Canteen at Spitalfields, Baker Street and Royal Festival Hall. Eat for the hungry RESTAURANTS across the capital join forces next month to raise money to fight hunger worldwide -- and you can do your bit by dining out during Action Against Hungers annual fundraiser, Fight Hunger/Eat Out, 1-31 October. Look out for special dishes from which a contribution goes to charity, or simply offer a donation with the bill. restaurantsagainst HILARY ARMSTRONG Wellequipped SpotShopping Trolley TIRED of lugging your carrier bags back from the supermarket? Then invest in this super-stylish yet practical shopper, which comes with an insulated cooler bag, two side pockets for additional storage and a drawstring and Velcro fastening to keep items safely tucked away. Hands off, Gran, its time for us to reclaim the shopper... 35, available from also potted rabbit with dandelion and toast. Equally distinctive are the retro morsels such as black devils on horseback (black pud- ding and prunes wrapped in bacon) and kipper croquettes. 27 Walham Grove, SW6 (020 7386 1847) TheAlbion THERES a part of us that cant resist the naffer ele- ments of chef Liam Kirwans bar menu a t t h e Albion. Were refer- r i n g t o childhood favourites like chipo- l a t a s a n d mustard (5.50) and chicken in a basket (8.50). Theres also on-trend offal and funky off-cuts making an appearance. Try the fried pigs ears (3), or the petite crubini -- a chef-ish take on crubeen, an Irish delicacy of braised pigs trotter, split in half then grilled with nutme g and breadcrumbs. Kirwans crubini (4.50) are rather more delicate, being combined with shredded pork hock and mustard, then breadcrumbed in genteel slices. Delicious. 10 Thornhill Road, N1 (020 7607 7450) AlbionThe ofparta resistcantthatus ele-nafferthe refer-Were t or i n g chipo-like a n dl a t a s (5.50)mustard ainchickenand (8.50).basket on-trendalsoTheres On the board: the delicious bar snacks at The Compass start at a bargain 2.50 index.html2.html3.html4.html5.html6.html7.html8.html9.html10.html11.html12.html13.html14.html15.html16.html17.html18.html19.html20.html21.html22.html23.html24.html25.html26.html27.html28.html29.html30.html31.html32.html33.html34.html35.html36.html37.html38.html39.html40.html41.html42.html43.html44.html45.html46.html47.html