Chicken Caesar salad (11.50) can often be little more than a big plate of lettuce, but here you got a mountain of chicken and crispy pancetta. Welsh lamb rack (15.50) was less tempting on the eye with its pretentious presentation, but the cutlets were delicious -- perhaps thats why getting only two seemed stingy. Lightly spiced plum and apple crumble (5) came with a small jug of custard, while a dark Valrhona chocolate tart (5) got a ball of more-ish espresso ice cream. It may not be destination dining, but if I were a local Id embrace The Cadogan with gusto. LARUSHKA IVAN-ZADEH Wellequipped NintendoCookingGuide London Lite Wednesday, 2 September 2009 23 --itsoystertime ing Belon and Fine de Claire from France, and Rossmore natives from Scotland. Classes, 50pp. Oysters at the bar from 11 a half-dozen. 8 Horner Square, Old Spitalfields Market, E1 (08000 191 704) GREENSRESTAURANT AND OYSTER BAR IT HAS taken nearly three decades, but venerable St Jamess oyster bar Greens, opens its second branch tomorrow. It occupies a distinguished City address: the former HQ of Lloyds Bank, now with ma gnificent horseshoe-shaped seafood and crus- tacea bar The Runner in the hall on the ground floor. Its pretty posh, being owned by a Parker Bowles (Camillas former brother-in-law, Simon), so where better to slurp down native oysters, the seabed aristocrats? Look out for the tie-up with Laurent- Perrier: two free oysters with every glass of ultra brut champagne, 14. Oysters, from 16 per half-dozen. 14 Cornhill, EC3 (020 7220 6300) LUTYENS SIR TERENCE CONRANS latest big- hitting restaurant is Fleet Streets Lutyens. Gregarious Irish head chef David Burke serves new season native oysters in the bar and the restaurant, but perhaps the finest spot is at the marble counter that doubles up as both ber-modern sushi destination and classic crustacea bar. There are only six slots at the counter so consider them the Square Miles most exclusive. Taste your way through a mixed half-dozen including West Mersea natives from Essex, and Frances finest, the prestigious Spciale de Claires. Such quality is best enjoyed with just a wedge of lemon or a dash of mignonette shal- lot vinegar. Other tasty variations include Rockefeller rock oysters (gratinated with spinach), 6.95, and Welsh rarebit with oysters, 8.50. 85 Fleet Street, EC4 (020 7583 8385) THE OYSTER BAR AT J SHEEKEY IT WAS always a bit of a squeeze -- a fun squeeze -- in the bar at J Sheekey. The vintage theatreland spot, beloved of thespians ever since the days when Sir Laurence Olivier was a regu- lar, was extended and refurbished last November and is now more fabulous than ever -- great news for shellfish fans who can now chow down on their bivalve of choice seven days a week. Any time of year, theres little better than a silver tiered plateau of fruits de mer, 27.50 per person, loaded with brown shrimps, whelks, winkles, and mussels, or the signature J Sheekey fish pie, 9.75. This month, however, wed be fools not to take advantage of their wicked offer: a glass of cham- pagne and a half-dozen West Mersea oysters, 15. 28-32 St Martins Court, WC2 (020 7240 2565) Litebites Foodanddrinknews Familiartreatsforlocalswithgoodtaste THE names Tom and Ed Martin probably wont ring a bell, but if youre a well-heeled Eastender who likes their grub, chances are youve eaten in one of their pubs. Their gastro-empire already stretches from Clerkenwell (The Hat And Tun) to Docklands (The Gun) and Sloane Square (The Botanist). Now theyve taken hold of this restored 19th-century Chelsea boozer and are already up for a Time Out eating award. Perhaps that high expectation counts against them, because although we thoroughly enjoyed our dinner, it wasnt really worth crossing London for. The What the punters like: The Cadogan Arms in Chelsea is Tom and Ed Martins latest foray into the gastropub market interior is all exposed brick, cosy wooden tables and quirky stuffed animals, while the head chef was poached from Guy Ritchies Punch Bowl in Mayfair and clearly knows what the punters like. Main courses are all familiar faves: mushroom risotto, cheeseburger, steak and fat chips. As for starters, a Dorset crab bisque (6) tasted slightly like hot water, but we had no quibbles with a velvety Dexter beef carpaccio with horseradish dressing (6.50). THE CADOGAN ARMS 298 Kings Rd, SW3 020 7352 6500. Three courses for two inc wine and service 100 Good fortunes SINGAPORE restaurant Min Jiang celebrates its first year in London next week with a special fortune cookie for every diner. From 7-13 September, crack open a cookie and find anything from an ancient Chinese proverb (bah!) to a night in the hotels master suite overlooking Hyde Park. 10th Floor, Royal Garden Hotel, 2-24 Kensington High Street, W8 (020 7361 1988) Eagles new wings THE daddy of all gastropubs, the Eagle, launches The Eagle Cookbook (20, Absolute Press) this week. The recipes are a sunny Mediterranean dream and a timely reminder of just how pioneering this no-frills pub really was in 1991. We love Tom Great Queen Street Norrington Daviess chilled aubergine soup and Sam and Sam Clarks (of Moro) salt cod salad. Source of quality SOURCED MARKET, the new fresh-food market at St Pancras International, launches on 7 September. Commuters will be able to nip in on the way to work (or Paris) to stock up on all sorts of responsibly sourced groceries, including organic meat from Laverstoke Park, fish from Jeffersons in Cornwall, Neals Yard cheese and Brindisa charcuterie. Open seven days a week. Yummy bookclub SOHO tearoom Yumchaa hosts the first of its monthly Mills & Boon nights from 6.30pm on 8 September. This guilty pleasures book club offers an evening of readings and romance over Yumchaas signature loose- leaf teas, cakes and chocolates. Entry is free. Yumchaa Soho, 45 Berwick Street, W1 (020 7209 9641) HILARY ARMSTRONG NO IDEA what to cook? Look no further than the Nintendo DS Cooking Guide, which offers more than 250 recipes. All you have to do is type the contents of your fridge into your DS hand-held using the touch screen -- or if your hands are busy doing the cooking, you can talk into the built-in microphone. Your DS will suggest recipes and lend a helping hand by talking you through each step. 14.99, nintendo.co.uk FOOD&DRINK posh,prettyItsfloor.groundthe BowlesParkerabyownedbeing Wine and dine: a glass of crisp white wine to wash down oystersat WrightBrosinBoroughMarket;inset,Greensisaproperposhexperience LARUSHKA IVAN-ZADEH the Nintendo DS Cooking Guide, which offers more than 250 recipes. All you have to do is type the contents of your fridge into your DS hand-held using the touch screen -- or if your hands are busy doing the cooking, you can talk into the built-in microphone. Your DS will suggest recipes and lend a helping hand by talking you through each step. index.html2.html3.html4.html5.html6.html7.html8.html9.html10.html11.html12.html13.html14.html15.html16.html17.html18.html19.html20.html21.html22.html23.html24.html25.html26.html27.html28.html29.html30.html31.html32.html33.html34.html35.html36.html37.html38.html39.html40.html41.html42.html43.html44.html45.html46.html47.html