22 Wednesday, 2 September 2009 London Lite STAR RESTAURANTH NigellaLawsonatGalleryMess Shucks S eptembers here, theres an r in the month and the first of the new seasons native oysters have arrived in the capitals best restaurants and seafood bars. You can eat pacific or rock oysters all year round, but theres nothing quite like the british Isles own mineral- rich, aphrodisiac and delicious natives that are only in season from now until April (spot that r). Youll find them in the smartest venues from this week but we like them best freshly shucked and with a glass of champagne at the counter of one of Lon- dons coolest crustacea bars. Here are our favourites... Wright Bros oyster and Porter house WrIgHt bros in borough market is known in the restau- rant trade as wholesaler for the finest oysters youll get in London. since 2002, the company has supplied the capitals best res- taurants with an astonishing variety including scottish oysters from Cumbrae, I r i s h o y s t e r s f r o m Carlingford Lough and even some rarities from Americas pacific North-West. For a unique spit and sawdust approach to oyster eating, a world away from Champagne Charlie hangouts, make tracks to its oyster And porter House. order yourself a half-dozen oysters (per- haps the sweet Colchester natives from 15 a half- dozen) washed down with a half of porter, the traditional London way. 11 Stoney Street, Borough Market, SE1 (020 7403 9554) Le Pont de La tour IN poLe position right on the thames, Le pont De La tour is waiting for the first oysters to arrive in town from the historic oyster beds of essex and Kent. this Friday the riverside brasserie will host the final leg of the thames Festival oyster run, an old tradition when six oyster smacks race along the river to get their cargo from the coast to the city. the boats are scheduled to reach Le pont De La tour at 1pm for shucking and serv- ing oysters, as fresh as you like, for lunch. the brightlingsea and Whitstable oysters are served all next week (or until they run out) at 8.50 per half-dozen. A glass of chablis, 9, and a few rays of sun are the only accom- paniment youll need. Butlers Wharf Building, 36d Shad Thames, SE1 (020 7403 8403) Le Bouchon Breton to FIND out more about the aphrodisiac super- foods, try the monthly oyster masterclasses at this grand French brasserie. Learn how to shuck oys- ters and pair them with drinks as diverse as sake and champagne, and enjoy tutored tastings of the many varieties, includ- Gonativeandenjoythe bestBritishshellfishnow thenewseasonishere by Hilary armstrong MushrooM PaPPardeLLe serves 4 l 400g dried pappardelle l 200g button mushrooms, sliced l 120g oyster mushrooms, sliced l 120g shitake mushrooms, in wedges l 5g dry porcini, soaked in 50ml water l Big clove of garlic, finely chopped l 100ml white wine l 150ml vegetable stock l 100g butter Cook pappardelle. Heat 50g of butter and olive oil in a frying pan. Saut mushrooms until golden, add garlic and cook for further minute. Add stock, wine and reduce by half. Add porcini, soaking water and rest of butter. Allow to thicken, season, add pasta. MushrooM souP serves 4 l 350g button mushrooms, sliced l 250g oyster mushrooms, sliced l 200g shitake mushrooms, in wedges l 350g potatoes, peeled and cubed l 50g Spanish onion, finely sliced l 25gdryporcini,in350mlwater l 1.4 litres vegetable stock l 100g pancetta, in small cubes l 100ml single cream Cook onion until translucent. Add potatoes and allow edges to colour. Add mushrooms, stir. Add stock and soaked porcini (with soaking water). Boil, then simmer until potatoes are tender. Add pancetta,serveanddrizzle with cream. carluccios.com mushrooms1ingredient2ways gaLLery Mess duke of yorks hQ, Kings road, sW1, 020 7730 8135 SET on the leafy Duke Of Yorks Square, the caf, restaurant and bar attached to the Saatchi Gallery is open for breakfast through to dinner. It also showcases the work of up-and- coming artists. Who Daniel Radcliffe brought his girlfriend -- Equuss Laura OToole -- here for a burger last week. Who eLse Fellow art fans include Nigella Lawson, Bryan Adams, Michael Douglas and Dominic West. aMBience The caf and bar look on to the square and feature the buildings original vaulted ceilings. Theres also a cool neon installation and a multicoloured glass bust worth 25,000. BLending in If you want to make out you visited a Saatchi exhibition, hide your shopping. What to order Gazpacho (6), a classic burger (10.50) or sea bream with caponata (12), and finish with rhubarb and strawberry crumble (6). What to drinK The Garden Martini -- cucumber-infused gin, apple juice and elderflower (8). Best taBLe The private dining room upstairs, of course. neXt Best thing The Wallace, Hertford House, Manchester Square, W1 Arty: Nigella, left, likes the Mess IN&OUTTONIGHT Wright stuff: a plate of native oysters served at Wright Bros index.html2.html3.html4.html5.html6.html7.html8.html9.html10.html11.html12.html13.html14.html15.html16.html17.html18.html19.html20.html21.html22.html23.html24.html25.html26.html27.html28.html29.html30.html31.html32.html33.html34.html35.html36.html37.html38.html39.html40.html41.html42.html43.html44.html45.html46.html47.html