FOOD&DRINK London Lite Wednesday, 29 July 2009 17 comingupros WITH its clean, white interior, pebble-grey tiles and seaside art from St Ives, this fish-slanted restaurant delivers its promise of a breath of crisp Cornish air in the heart of Camden -- even if Parkway is hardly a sea view. I say fish-slanted because, though the menu bristles with the likes of oysters, cockles and lobsters, with a fruits de mer platter (min two persons) coming in at a minimum 30pp, theres as much turf as surf here. As the date pointed out theres not much Coast about a wild mushroom Cornwall meets Camden: the cool interior of the dining room at Coast on Parkway in Camden Town risotto or a chicken and duck liver parfait. Maybe they worried about depleting the oceans. Theyd scoured them diligently for my standout glass of tiger prawns with aioli (6), sensational specimens with a fresh, meaty bite. A fish soup was another winner: clearly COAST 108 Parkway NW1. 020 7267 9555 Three courses for two with wine and service 85 Cabaret, Ctes de ProvenCe ros, FranCe, 2008 Part of Oddbins new season selection, this fresh and intense Cabaret is usually 8.49 a bottle but will cost you just 20 for three until 16 August. Try with summery mezze. 8.49, Oddbins Larbaude ros, Mas de Cadenet, 2008, FranCe Classic, summery Provenal ros, new in at Maida Vales independent winery. From a seventh- generation family estate near Aix. 9.99, thewineryuk.com FairhiLLs Mendoza vineyards ros, 2007, argentina A Fairtrade-certified tipple made from Shiraz grapes. Medium-dry, and full-bodied enough to cope with rich seafood like tuna, prawns and salmon. 4.99, Tesco sainsburys ChiLean ros Made from 100 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, this off-dry own label ros is simple and easy-drinking, ideal for a cold post-work glass in the garden. 3.99, Sainsburys WaterkLooF CirCuMstanCe CaPe CoraL Mourvedre, 2008, south aFriCa A pale, shell-pink ros to savour. Dry but with red berry flavours -- recommended with seafood and delicately spiced foods. 9, Harvey Nichols asda sMart PriCe seven hiLLs ros This Italian Sangiovese ros may bear the Asda Smart Price label but it won a silver at this years International Wine And Spirit competition, so dont be too snooty about this good-value quaffing. Simple and straightforward, with both the colour and taste of fresh strawberries, its a good match with summer salads. 5.97, Asda veuve oLivier ros sParkLing Wine A snip for a crisp, fresh summer sparkler. Great for a cheapo celebration any day of the week. 4.49, Aldi rosabeLLa, aLdo vajra, PiedMont, itaLy This highly rated wine doesnt conform to the usual Piedmont wine classifications so is a non-vintage vino da tavola. Its a beauty though -- perfumed and very intense. 9.95, vinoteca.co.uk Marks & sPenCer, Cabernet FranC ros, FriuLi, itaLy, 2008 New at M&S this year. Made in a modern style, it works well as an aperitif, and is even recommended with sushi. 6.99, Marks & Spencer Marques de CaLatrava organiC teMPraniLLo rosado, sPain, 2008 A very modern and very gluggable dry ros made from Tempranillo grapes in La Mancha. Try it with tapas. 6.79, Waitrose TO DRINK THe pINK, HeRes OUR lOwDOwN ON THe UlTImaTe sUmmeR wINe home-made, it was unusually creamy and delicious mopped up with warm, crusty bread. Catch of the day proved a case of art over sense -- a lemon sole (15) gained nothing, except slight mushiness, by being wrapped over on itself in a pretentious Well equipped ice crusher Nocoastingatthispalaceofsurfnturf parcel. But we greedily slurped up a bowl of steamed Brixham mussels with cider cream and generous chorizo chunks (10.50). So stuffed were we from mopping up the mussel sauce we couldnt face heavy puds such as rhubarb and apple crumble. With no fresh fruit option, we opted for ice cream, and were delighted by a 5 selection of some of the most delicious home-made ice cream wed recently sampled. Honey and herb, blackberry ripple and a double-chocolate truffle that left us humming, Oh we do like to be beside the seaside... laRUsHKa IvaN-ZaDeH TenToprossforunderaTenner... ESSENTIAL for your summer parties, this handy gadget crushes ice in a matter of seconds. Very easy to use with a handy scoop included, plus its dishwasher- proof. A kitchen staple -- cool down any drink and create the perfect cocktail in record time! Ice crusher, 27, johnlewis.com (very nice, not as cloying as it used to be). Historically, restaurateurs have turned their noses up at ros wines, probably because theyre inexpensive, reckons Philips. Anyone who dismisses it as lightweight is missing the point, he says. Its not trying to compete with the finest Bordeaux. Its a seasonal wine and theres nothing better on a hot summers day. Theres just one thing, he warns. Its incred- ibly moreish. Order one bottle and youll almost certainly order a second. Where to drink ros allBarone ITS coming up ros all summer at All Bar One as the bar group celebrates its first Limited Edition Ros Wine Festival until the end of August. All eight wines (plus three sparklers) will be available by both glass and bottle. The Reserve de Sours sparkling Cabernet, Merlot ros from Bordeaux and a Pinot Noir from Tasmania are all well worth a try. branches at allbarone.co.uk francos THE Jermyn Street restaurant has the UKs largest ros wine list. Starting at just 16 and with the bulk of wines coming in at under 30, you dont need to flex your credit card to sample a really unusual ros here. For something out of the ordinary, try La Zouinas Voulibia Gris from Morocco, 18. Enjoy alfresco, with platters of antipasti. Francos, 61 Jermyn Street SW1, 020 7499 2211 lapeTiTeMaison THE London outpost of the Nice original -- a favourite of French president Nicolas Sarkozy -- specialises in cuisine nioise and hard-to- find Provenal ros wines. Recreate the Riviera summer over a bottle, from 22, also available at take-home prices. The food is similarly sunny -- think artichoke salad, marinated sardines and monkfish with olives. La Petite Maison, 53-54 Brooks Mews W1, 020 7495 4774 In the pink: ros is perfect for a summer picnic index.html2.html3.html4.html5.html6.html7.html8.html9.html10.html11.html12.html13.html14.html15.html16.html17.html18.html19.html20.html21.html22.html23.html24.html25.html26.html27.html28.html29.html30.html31.html32.html33.html34.html35.html36.html37.html38.html39.html