Yourtime 12 Friday, 24 July 2009 London Lite N OW and again, a week on a beach can get a trifle mundane. So, when some friends suggested an action-packed flit around the fjords and glaciers of western Norway, I jumped at the chance. I didnt know what to expect, besides hoping the men looked like my girlhood crush, Morten Harket of Norwegian band A-Ha, and that the lake-and-mountain scenery would be as awe-inspiring as Id heard. Bridge&tunnel WE HIT the ground running with an internal flight from Oslo to lesund, a seaside town on the west coast facing the Atlantic Ocean, which marked the start of our proposed fjord and glacier trail. The town is made up of islands connected to the main- land by bridges and tunnels serviced by toll or troll booths. We stopped off for tea at the candy-striped Alnes light- house on Giske, and ate pancakes and coffee- flavoured chocolate cake. Then, buzzing from the sugar rush, we zipped up the winding wooden staircases to the top of the tower. The view from the little platform was stunning: miles of rocky coastline with ocean stretching as far as the eye could see. Trolltastic LESUND is known as the Art Nouveau town and was rebuilt in 1904 after a fire destroyed all its original 800 houses. The architects drafted in for the rebuild had trained all over Europe, so the new town is a remarkable reflection of their differ- ent influences -- from Gothic-style towers to Gaudi-esque motifs and Norse mythology. Look carefully, and youll spot gurning troll faces carved into the stone, known as Yoogen. Norwegians have a strong mythical tradi- tion of petrification and theres a great story that a troll princess, having trav- elled miles to meet a potential suitor, was so unimpressed when she finally saw him ENCOUNTER FJORDS, TROLLS AND BY STEPHANIE HIRSCHMILLER Boatiful couple: Eva and George Celebrity hotspot Portofino, Italy WHO: Actress Eva Mendes relaxes on a boat with her boyfriend, film- maker George Gargurevich, and designers Dolce and Gabbana. WHY GO: Perfect for posing on your yacht and sunbathing. THE VIBE: Old Hollywoods playground -- Elizabeth Taylor and Humphrey Bogart were regulars. BEST FOR: Eating seafood along the harbour. WHERE TO STAY: The renowned Hotel Splendido (00 39 0185 267 801) is the height of luxury -- a glorious villa with seaside views. Not credit crunch-friendly, it will set you back from 678 a night. WHERE TO EAT: Da Puny (00 39 0185 269 037) is one of the best restaurants on the harbour. Feast on fresh fish al verde and carne alluccelletto (diced meat sauted in butter). Mains from 9.50. WHAT TO DO: Enjoy the scenery on a lengthy walk to San Fruttuoso, with its superb Benedictine abbey. SOMETHING DIFFERENT: Check out the Santa Margherita and Portofino MBAs Match Race Cup, a yacht race in which more than 20 top MBA schools will compete, from 24 to 27 September. TOP TIP: The summer is the most expensive and crowded time, so go in September or October. FOR MORE DETAILS: italy JENNIFER BARTON Trolling Norways glaciers Printed on100% recycled paper with inkthat doesnt comeoff onyour hands index.html2.html3.html4.html5.html6.html7.html8.html9.html10.html11.html12.html13.html14.html15.html16.html17.html18.html19.html20.html21.html22.html23.html24.html25.html26.html27.html28.html29.html30.html31.html32.html33.html34.html35.html36.html37.html38.html39.html